Intonation on a few strings on my guitar is out

pix courtesy mi.edu

There are many reasons that may cause this issue. But to understand it completely, one must first understand intonation itself.

Intonation is the accuracy of the pitch of a note sounded. When you tune your guitar you do so by plucking the open (unfretted) strings. On fretting, the tension on the string increases, which generally changes the pitch of the note. The effect, though subtle, can impact the intonation. 

Cutting out the jargon and putting it in simple terms, if the open note and the same note fretted sound exactly the same, your guitar is intonated. If not, then for the instrument to be perfectly intonated, adjustments have to be made to the saddle and nut, and sometimes, even to the action.

If the fretted note is sharp, the string needs to be lengthened (pushing back the contact point of the string on the saddle/nut or both).

If the fretted note is flat, the string needs to be shortened (bring the contact point of the string on the saddle/nut or both forward).

In electric guitars and basses this can be done with considerable ease but adjusting intonation in acoustic instruments involves a lot of work.

But here are a few reasons for some strings not being intonated, while others are perfectly in tune. Let’s go from the simplest and the most obvious to slightly more complicated issues.

 

* Unstretched new strings

Pix courtesy: guitarfella

Often, when new strings are put on, players forget to stretch them.

New, coiled strings are not used to the tension they are put under once a guitar is tuned up. Just like a rubberband, the tendency of new strings is to return to their original position, and thus, new strings will often go out of tune, hitting intonation.    

As a matter of practice, new strings should be stretched, tuned, stretched again and re-tuned till they are able to hold the tension when they are in pitch. 

 

* Old strings or bad strings

Pix courtesy: guitarchalk

Old strings need to be changed because strings have a shelf life after which they don’t sound good. But sometimes, a new set can play up too. Tough luck, but you will have to change your new strings for new strings!!

 

*Too much relief and high action

Pix courtesy: guitargearfinder

Relief is that optimal curvature in the fretboard (which can be adjusted) which allows the strings to vibrate with ease without them hitting the frets, or, them being a mile high from the frets. 

This ‘optimal curvature’ creates an optimal space between the strings and frets and is referred to as action.

It is interesting that the two things – relief and action – are hugely related and while adjusting the relief, action does get affected. However, while adjusting the action, the relief remains absolutely unchanged for it is two very different roads you take to reach Optimum Relief and Optimum Action.

If you need to adjust the relief in the neck, a proper sized Allen wrench to fit the truss rod adjustment is used, while if it is action you wish to lower, then the saddle and nut – on which the strings ride – need to be lowered by shaving them.

All this was an introduction to how relief and action affect intonation. So, if there is a big (concave) curve in the neck – big relief –  the strings on that instrument are going to be riding painfully high. To fret a note on such an instrument you would have to pull the strings down so much that effectively, you would be elongating the length of the string, thus, throwing the intonation on that particular string off by miles.

 An unnecessarily tall saddle and nut too raise strings uncomfortably high and we all know when the strings are high and you fret a note, what happens to that note.

 

*A worn saddle

Pix courtesy: guitaranswerguy

If the saddle on your acoustic guitar looks anything like this, you are in big trouble – intonation wise. 

Look closely at the saddle in your guitar with the strings on. In all probability, you will find that the exact points of contacts of the six strings are not in a straight line but some contact points are pulled forward, while others are pushed back. This is to “compensate” for varying thickness of strings.

In deeply notched saddles like the one in the picture, the point of contact has gone awry and thus, this instrument will never be truly intonated till the time that a new saddle (and preferably made of bone) is not put in.

 

*A tilted saddle is no good

Pix courtesy: strangeguitarworks

Look carefully at the photo above. Of course, you can see the space around the ends of the saddle, but look closer and you will be able to notice space behind the saddle too. This means that the saddle is tilted forward, which again throws the intonation out of whack.

Let me explain. We were talking about points of contact on the saddle in the previous point. With the saddle tilted forward, suddenly those points of contact have moved forward too, thus affecting intonation.

To correct this problem, either a new, thicker saddle (and preferably made of bone) needs to be put in the bridge slot, or, the bridge slot needs to be filled, a new proper-size slot routed out, which would seat the saddle upright.

 

*If the nut is too tall

Pix courtesy: future

Not just saddles, even the height of the nut makes a difference. The ideal action on an acoustic guitar at the 1st fret – a result of the height of the nut – is between 0.16″ and 0.18″.

To get those numbers, the nut needs to be pulled out and its bottom sanded to lower it to a proper height, so that the action at the 1st fret is just right. Again, if it is too high, you will be using extra effort to fret notes, which would cause elongation of the string, which in turn, would affect intonation. 

 

*Bad tuning machines

Pix courtesy: beckwithstrings

If the gears on one or two or all tuning machines are slipping, then you will be tuning your guitar the entire day and it will keep falling out of tune.

If ever you encounter such a problem, chuck out those cheap tuning machines, go to your guitar tech and get a good set installed. What is a “good set”?

Tuning machines have gear ratios – the number of teeth to a gear. The more the teeth to the gears, the more finely you can tune your guitar. If you hear that a tuning machine set has a gear ratio of 1:21, it means that it would take 21 turns of the tuning machine button for the post of the machine to complete one full turn.   

 

*Flat frets

Pix courtesy: jacksinstrumentservices
Pix courtesy: premierguitar

All string instruments function on the principle of a vibrating string, where the sound produced is dependent on the length of the string. Thus, from the nut to the saddle is the effective length of the string and when you ‘fret’ a note, you change the length of that particular string, which produces the desired sound.

If while fretting a note, a fret is not in proper shape (lower photo), it will never produce the desired sound. If the fret(s) is (are) flat (Pix courtesy: jacksinstrumentservices), intonation will be affected big time.

If the frets on your instrument are not in good shape, they will have to be dressed, crowned and polished for your guitar to play the way it was intended to play.

Cracks: whys and what to do about them

The reasons for cracks appearing in acoustic guitars may be twofold. Firstly, due to weather (humidity) changes, and secondly, due to accidents. While the latter you may not always be in a position to control, the former you can almost always prevent.

 

Humidity related cracks

Here, in North India, as we head into the dry part of summer, I thought that this would be a good time to talk about humidity issues. The drying of your instrument is evident foremost on the top and back and signs generally appear when it is hot and dry and your instrument is not cared for.

A humidity-induced crack in the top. pix courtesy: seymourduncan.com
A separating seam on the back of a guitar. pix courtesy: josefek.com

A shrinking top or back may even strain the seams and sides of the instrument enough to cause the seam to open or the side to crack.

Tops are built with a degree of arching. As the instrument dries out this arch will flatten and then take on a concave shape.

If you do not humidify the instrument at this point, a crack is well and truly on its way. The same logic applies to the back of the instrument too.

On an instrument that is very dry, an accidental bump to the side can cause a ghastly split along it, not pretty at all.

pix courtesy: dogwoodguitars

Even bridges are known to crack more often than not due to lack of humidity, though that is not the only reason for bridges cracking. Badly fitting bridgepins and saddles can also cause a split in the bridge.

pix courtesy: scottymoore.com

So, without a humidity gauge, how do you figure out that your instrument needs a drink? If you feel that that the action on your instrument has got lower (caused by a dry, flatter top), if you suddenly feel the fret ends (due to a shrinking fretboard), or, if suddenly the action has gone too high (caused by a lifting bridge, or the heel end of the neck coming loose),

pix courtesy: acousticvibesmusic.com
pix courtesy: frets.com

it’s time to get the humidity up in the instrument, before further corrective steps are taken.

Traditionally, guitar manufacturers used to stick the pickguard directly to the top before the varnish (lacquer) was sprayed on. This keeps the pickguard stuck nice and solid to the top without the pickguard’s corners curling up, as we often see these days. However, this is as much a minus as it is a plus.

When the top wood dries and shrinks, the pickguard stuck to the wood, doesn’t allow it to shrink, causing a split. Did you know that even plastic pickguards shrink? They do – with age, and when they do and if they are stuck directly to the wood of the top, they crack the top, on one or both sides of themselves.

 

Cracks due to accidents

A knock to the side of your instrument may not seem that bad but if the guitar strings are tuned to pitch the impact may result in a crack. If you’re unlucky instead of that crack you get a split! And that is why you are asked to carry acoustic instruments in (at least) padded cases.

pix courtesy: acousticvibesmusic.com

It is not uncommon for guitars to slip out of players’ hands while being carried: again the perfect recipe for a crack to develop, and again, the advice to carry your instrument in cases (preferably hard ones).

Wall brackets are another culprit. If one has not taken care in ‘hanging up’ the guitar, down it comes! Wall brackets are usually safe, provided you keep checking them and the screws that hold them. A loose screw can cause a lot of heartache, not to talk of the damage to the pocket.

 

Closing cracks

Cracks caused due to (a lack of) humidity are comparatively easy to repair (generally), if they are spotted early. A little bit of extra humidity and most of the ‘opening’ closes. The remaining opening can be closed with glue and some clamping pressure. The only care to be taken here is that the two separated halves align perfectly. Here, cauls – fibre glass or wood – clamped above and below the affected portion, work best in keeping the halves together.

In case of a naughty pickguard, it needs removal. If the crack it caused does not go with humidity, it will need to be glued, often requiring a splinter of wood too. A new pickguard should take the place of the old one.

Cracks as a result of accidents are trickier by nature and almost never in a straight line. The jagged nature of the break calls for a lot of thought, planning and good execution.

Whether caused by humidity or an accident, some cracks may require cleats to reinforce the glued up crack. Cleats are small pieces of wood (preferably of the same material as the wood in the area where the crack is) which are stuck along the seam of the crack so that it does not open up again.

pix courtesy: premierguitar.com

Cracks, if left un-repaired, can often cause more serious issues, especially if it causes the wood to twist out of alignment. If string tension adds to the stress, it should be removed until a repair is made.

 

Finishing it

One may restore structural stability with a repair one carries out, but finishing the repaired area such that it is near invisible to the eye is the real challenge.

The area of the joint will require to be brought up (in level with the rest of the top, back or side) and my choice for doing that is super thin super glue put in three or four applications after each application has settled and dried, and then wet-sanding the area to level everything.